Candle moulds come in all shapes and sizes, and there are a lot to choose from, so choose which ones are fit for purpose.
Rubber and latex moulds have a limited lifespan. When using latex moulds opt for vybar instead of stearin as stearin will eat away at the latex!
Metal moulds are the most durable, and are the easiest to care for, and can take the heat of all types of wax and additives. By heating a metal mould prior to pouring the wax in, you’ll obtain a shiny finish to the candle.
When using plastic moulds, keep the wax temperature below 130° - 140°C and this will keep your moulds in good condition. Using a low melt wax will be ideal. You rarely obtain a shiny finish to your candle in a plastic mould however you can achieve this by using a heat gun gently to your finished candle, then dipping the candle quickly into cold water. Simple! Fragrance or essential oils can erode plastic moulds; stearin, when used at ratios more than 20%, can cause cracks in a plastic mould’s surface.
Moulds can be found around the house! Use baby food jars for container candles, and galvanised buckets are ideal for outdoor citronella candles. Card milk cartons can be peeled away once the candle is set and the exterior wax can be smoothed to rule out any imperfections. Silicone rubber moulds are incredible as they are completely seamless and you can create your own unique mould – just mould the rubber around your favourite shape.
Preparing the mould
Always ensure your mould is clean.
1.Cut a length of wicking that will be approximately 10cm longer than the total length of the mould you’re using.
2.Thread the wicking through the hole in the bottom of the mould and tie a secure knot. If you find it difficult to get the wick through the hole because of fraying for example, try dipping it in some wax and rolling it to a point so it can be poked through more easily.
3.While keeping the wick in the hole at the base, grab some mould sealer such as Blu-Tack™ and use this to secure the wick on the base. Don’t skimp!
4.Then, using a wick holder, secure the wick to the open end of your mould, ensuring the wick is centred. You can buy wick holders, or use an item like a cocktail stick or a clothes peg. Your choice of wick holder will be dependent on the diameter of your candle. Tie your wick to the holder so that it is taut.
Removing the mould
1. Ensure the candle is completely cool.
2. Remove the mould sealer.
3. If rigid, the candle should slide out of the mould easily. If your candle is proving a little obstinate, place it in the fridge for 15 minutes and try again. The cool environment will help the wax shrink and encourage it to separate from the mould.
4. If it will not budge, and you are certain that it is completely cool, the only remaining course of action for removal is to pour hot water over the mould. This will melt the wax sticking to the inside of the mould however it will leave your candle with an uneven surface although obviously you can start again.
5. Trim the wick at the bottom of the candle (the bottom of the candle is where the wick was attached to the wick holder). Trim the wick at the top of your candle to about 1 – 2cm.
6. If desired, you may level the base of the candle by placing the candle on a cookie sheet (one with sides will work best) that is sitting on top of a pot of boiling water. Use the heated cookie sheet to melt away some of the wax until you have a flat base.
7. Trim the top wick to about 6mm.
