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| Candle Dyes |
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| Stearin |
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| Candle Fragrance |
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| Wax Colouring |
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Additives such as stearin or vybar should be added slowly during the candle making process as they have a much higher melting point than the wax itself. Usually the temperature should be raised to approximately 100°C in order for the additives to melt sufficiently into the wax. Take great care!
Stearic acid, commonly known as stearin, raises the melting point of the wax mixture resulting in a harder and more durable candle.
Stearin can be made from vegetable oil or tallow, as a guide it’s best to use 10% stearin to 90% wax. The combination of paraffin wax and stearin has many benefits; not only will it give you a candle that won’t sag and will burn for a long time, but it is easier to de-mould as the mixture shrinks as it cools. Be on your guard when using stearin with latex or rubber moulds, as stearin can erode these over time. Stearin is really useful for gorgeous decorative effects as it will give wax a more opaque finish, and offer brighter colours. Try over-dipping a standard candle in a blend of 30% stearin and 70% paraffin wax. It will form a hard outer casing which will extend the life of the candle and also create less mess because as the candle burns, the softer wax inside is consumed rather than dripping away.
You can use the over-dipping method to colour just the outside of the candle, or choose a contrasting colour to the internal taper. Increase the glossiness by dipping the candle immediately into cool water to give a beautiful lacquered sheen.
A low percentage of stearin can result in a snowflake effect or a soapy candle, and too much stearin can make a brittle candle although some experts will make a candle from 100% stearin!
Vybar is added as it increases the creaminess – the opacity – and consistency of the candle and helps it burn better. Vybar will bind up any water (or oil) molecules within your wax which may cause problems. If you use essential oils, Vybar can sometimes prevent the fragrance from working and also cause a wavy effect on your candle. This normally occurs when you have added too much Vybar. 1ml of Vybar for every 450g of wax should be enough to achieve a smooth burning candle. There are two different types of Vybar; 103 is usually used for moulded candles and 260 is ideal for container candles.
Colour is available in all sorts of formats, and dyes are especially manufactured for candle making. You can get concentrated blocks or sticks which you shave off into the wax and there are also liquid and pigment dyes.
The more dye you use the darker the colour. Always use dyes sparingly – a drop at a time. It’s a good idea to master colour blending before purchasing all the colours of the rainbow. Once you’ve got a handle on colour mixing, you can increase your palette, however initially if you just begin with red, blue and yellow, then you can create five further colours directly, but increasing the amounts of each will allow for a further expanded colour palette. Here’s a basic guide to get you started:
If you just add a mix of red and yellow to your wax you’ll get orange, but if you dilute it (i.e. add less) then you can obtain a more peachy tint. It’s a good time to experiment! A colour wheel can be a helpful piece of kit if you are new to colour mixing, and it’s a really useful addition to have with regard to finding out what contrasting colours are.
You can test your chosen colour by doing a quick test with a small amount of wax. Mix your dye with some hot wax in a suitable receptacle such as an old yoghurt pot (the smaller the better – it’s only a test after all). Place this in some cold water taking care that the water does not go into the container. The wax will solidify immediately and give you a guide as to the colour of your chosen dye. The colour of the wax will usually be one or two shades lighter then the finished candle.
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